There is something about travelling in the train; wherever I may be going it always gives the feeling of going back home. For me train travel is about the time I spend standing at the doors of the moving train, feeling the gush of winds on my face, the moments I spend befriending kids, playing rock-scissors-paper, the stories that I hear from old people of ‘How the times have changed’ and the buzz at the stations each one presenting a unique cuisine to chose from. Not for the easily irritated, a journey in the second class compartment of the India Railways is a must do for anyone who wishes to feel India in its elements. A one and a half to two days journey from south India to the north or from east to west is a perfect place for ‘Discovery India’.
As soon as you board a train you can see a new ecosystem randomly unfolds itself right in front of your eyes. The journey begins with passengers haggling with coolies over small amounts; the farewell goodbyes from the near and dear ones, if lucky, you might even catch a glimpse of a few tear drops; young people touching the feet of their elders and the elders in return giving some pocket money to the young ones, some of whom refuse to take it, other offer their pocket after a little pestering and still other unashamed to put their hand forth, assuming that money to be their birth right. Slowly as the train leaves the station people start adjusting to the new environments. A few hours down the line it would be tough to distinguish who are family and who are strangers. Generally everyone is bonhomie, exchanging initial introduction and then jumping in to join in a round of cards ‘teen patti’, discuss the latest policies of the government, sharing recipes, playing around with the kids. New friendships are happening all around.
The music in this ecosystem is added by the vendors and the beggars. The vendors sell everything they possibly can in those narrow alleys. ‘Kabuli channa lelo’, ‘Jhaal mudi wala’, ‘Pepsi Thumbs up Cola’, ‘chaiii coffeeee’, ‘nashtaa lunch dineer’ are some of the common shouts you get to hear continuously. Magazines, duplicate electronic items, keychains, toys and among the many things apart from food that is sold here. As for the beggars, there are two major categories. The ones that entertainer to get money, and who should not exactly be called beggars and the others who try to touch an emotional chord within you. The most song most sung by beggars in a north india that I have heard is “garibon ki suno wo tumhari sunega, tum ek paisa do wo das lakh dega”.
And gods save you from an encounter with the Hijras. They are a species in themselves. Be ready with a change of 5-10 Rs if you don’t want to be on the receiving end of the abuses. Its always funny how they start. ‘arre mere shahrukh chal paise nikal’ or ‘aaye haai sallu, teri zulfe to bahut lehra rahi hain’. Whenever I heard any of them at a distance, which one generally does hearing the characteristic clap, I made sure I sneak into the toilets or the act sleeping in the top berth not waking up even on repeated shakes.
There is nothing in this place that won’t bewilder a first timer. There is so much to discover in every journey. This one goes out to all those who have stopped travelling by train off late or those who never did.
